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41.
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Directional wave spectra measured by a cloverleaf buoy in the East China Sea during AMTEX '75 have been compared with those calculated with the operational numerical MRI wave model developed at the Meteorological Research Institute of the Japan Meteorological Agency (J.M.A.). It is shown that the numerical wave model MRI can predict rather well, not only the frequency spectrum, but also the angular distribution function of the spectrum. The frequency dependence of the calculated angular distribution function is quite similar to that observed; the angular distribution is narrower for the spectral components near the peak spectral frequency but widens toward high frequencies and approaches the cos2-distribution.  相似文献   
43.
Data of a comprehensive laboratory study on the coexistent system of wind waves and opposing swell (Mitsuyasu and Yoshida, 1989) have been reanalyzed to clarify the air-sea interaction phenomena under the coexistence of wind waves and swell. It is shown that the magnitude of the decay rate of swell due to an opposing wind is almost the same as that of the growth rate of swell caused by a following wind, as measured by Mitsuyasu and Honda (1982). The decay rate is much smaller than that obtained recently by Peirson et al. (2003), but the reason for the disagreement is not clear at present. The effect of an opposing swell on wind waves is very different from that of a following swell; wind waves are intensified by an opposing swell while they are attenuated by a following one. The phenomenon contradicts the model of Phillips and Banner (1974), but the reason for this is not clear at this time. The high-frequency spectrum of wind waves shows a small increase of the spectral density. Wind shear stress increases a little due to the effect of opposing swell. The intensification of wind waves by opposing swell and the small increase of the spectral density in a high-frequency region can be attributed to the increase of wind shear stress. Such organized phenomena lead to the conclusion that the hypothesis of local equilibrium for pure wind waves (Toba, 1972) can also be satisfied for wind waves that coexist with opposing swell. The recent finding of Hanson and Phillips (1999) can be explained by this mechanism.  相似文献   
44.
Distributions and characteristics of water mass and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) in the North Pacific are investigated by using a General Circulation Model (GCM). The anthropogenic CO2 uptake by the ocean is estimated with velocity fields derived from the GCM experiments. The sensitivity of the uptake to different diffusion parameterizations and different surface forcing used in the GCM is investigated by conducting the three GCM experiments; the diffusive processes are parameterized by horizontal and vertical eddy diffusion which is used in many previous models (RUN1), parameterized by isopycnal diffusion (RUN2), and isopycnal diffusion and perpetual winter forcing for surface temperature and salinity (RUN3). Realistic features for water masses and CFCs can be simulated by the isopycnal diffusion models. The horizontal and vertical diffusion model fails to simulate the salinity minimum and realistic penetration of CFCs into the ocean. The depth of the salinity minimum layer is better simulated under the winter forcing. The results suggest that both isopycnal parameterization and winter forcing are crucial for the model water masses and CFCs simulations. The oceanic uptake of anthropogenic CO2 in RUN3 is about 19.8 GtC in 1990, which is larger by about 10% than that in RUN1 with horizontal and vertical diffusive parameterization. RUN3 well simulates the realistic water mass structure of the intermediate layer considered as a candidate of oceanic sink for anthropogenic CO2. The results suggest that the previous models with horizontal and vertical diffusive parameterization may give the oceanic uptake of anthropogenic CO2 underestimated. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   
45.
Water surface elevations(t), vertical surface velocities and vertical surface acceleration of wind-generated waves have been measured in a laboratory wind wave channel by using resistance-type wave gauges combined with an electronic differentiation circuits. Probability distributions of the values of(t), , and have been determined from the wave records.In an initial stage of wave generation,i.e., when wind waves are generated at short fetches and low wind speeds, the observed distributions for(t), and are appreciately good fit to the distributions given by successive sum of a Gram-Charlier series, which has been derived following the formulation ofLonguet-Higgins (1963), by taking the weakly nonlinear effect into account.However, when wind waves develop with increasing wind speeds and fetches, the observed distributions deviate gradually from the Gram-Charlier series. Particularly, the deviations are remarkable for the distribution of .When the wind speed increases, the observed distributions of(t), and show the following characteristics: (i) the skewnesses of the distributions of(t) and decrease slightly, (ii) the skewness of changes, at some wind speed, from positive small values to relatively large negative values, (iii) the kurtosis of the distribution of(t) decreases slightly but that of increases slightly and these characteristics seem to depend not so much on fetches, (iv) the kurtosis of the distribution of increases rapidly.  相似文献   
46.
We have measured inorganic nitrogen (IN) content and the isotope ratio of IN (δ15NIN) in a sediment core covering the last 145 kyr in the western subarctic Pacific (WSAP). IN content was generally high during glacial periods and shows positive correlations with both eolian dust content and the ratio of organic carbon (C) to organic nitrogen (ON) (C/ON) found in our previous studies. This means that IN was transported from continental areas to the WSAP together with eolian dust and that the IN was not contaminated by volcanic materials, because the eolian dust content was reconstructed using metal components to remove contaminating volcanic materials. Therefore, IN content in the WSAP sediments, the clay fraction of which is not greatly affected by drift deposits seen at the other sites in this region, may potentially be an effective proxy for eolian dust, without the need to consider contamination by volcanic materials. δ15NIN was generally low during glacial periods and shows negative correlations with IN, eolian dust, and C/ON. The possible causes of the observed variations in δ15NIN are as follows: (1) authigenic fixation of NH4 + in water-column and pore water of sea-floor sediments to clay minerals; (2) contamination of measured IN by highly resistant organic matter; or (3) variations in the continental source region of the eolian dust supplied to the WSAP and climatically induced changes in δ15N of soil organic matter there. The last mechanism shows the potential for δ15NIN to be used as a proxy for climate change on land, and is consistent with other published explanations of the spatial distribution of δ15NIN in modern sea-floor sediments.  相似文献   
47.
We investigated the distribution of δ13C and δ15N of organic matter among benthic communities from the upper estuary of Yura River to offshore of Tango Sea, Japan, to determine spatial variation in utilization of organic matter by benthic communities. The δ13C values of benthic animals ranged from −27 to −15‰ in the upper estuary, −21 to −15‰ in the lower estuary, −20 to −16‰ in the shallow coast (5–10 m depths), −18 to −16‰ in the deep coast (30–60 m depths) and −19 to −15‰ in offshore (100–150 m depths) stations. Adapting the dual isotope values to mixing models, we estimated the relative contributions of potential food sources to the benthos diet. Phytoplankton and macroalgae that intruded the estuary in summer were utilized as alternative food aside from the terrestrial-origin organic matter assimilated by the estuarine benthic consumers. Resuspended benthic microalgae were important source of energy in the shallow coastal stations, while abundant supply of phytodetritus fueled the deep coastal and offshore benthic food webs. Spatial difference in the diet of benthic communities depends largely on the shifts in the primary carbon source. Thus, benthic communities are important link of autochthonous/allochthonous production and secondary production in the continuous river–estuary–marine system.  相似文献   
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49.
Over the Southern Ocean the dominant modes of the atmospheric field are known as the Southern Annular Mode (SAM) or Antarctic Oscillation, and the Pacific South American (PSA) pattern. Statistical analysis of sea surface wind (SSW) from satellite observation revealed two leading modes of SAM-like and PSA patterns. In the high latitudes, the SAM-like pattern of the SSW had a large amplitude over the Bellingshausen Basin and Australian-Antarctic Basin, with opposite phase between the two basins. On the intraseasonal time scale, large-scale sea surface height (SSH) also had notable variability, showing a basin-scale anti-phase mode over the two basins. To explain the response of oceanic variations to these atmospheric modes, we analyzed the relationship between the dominant modes of wind stress and large-scale SSH on the intraseasonal time scale. The SAM-like pattern of wind stress was correlated with the SSH variation over the two basins. The SSH basin mode was most simply explained by a simple barotropic response to the SAM-like mode of wind stress, with the curl of opposite phase between the two basins. We conclude that the zonal asymmetry of the wind field of the SAM plays an important role in driving the antiphase SSH basin modes.  相似文献   
50.
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